How to Make a Mess

Messes are best made shortly before serving. Garnishes are totally superfluous. An Eton mess is made with meringue chunks, whipped/ice cream, and (usually marinated) fruit, traditionally strawberries. As the name implies, it’s said to have originated at Eton College, UK. The variation with bananas served at Lancing College is of course called a Lancing mess, which sounds a lot bloodier than it is.

A French meringue isn’t always practical in the humid South, so I often make what is called in culinary spleen Italian meringue. Heat a cup of sugar and a half cup of water to boil and cool to barely steaming. Whip four egg whites with a squirt of lemon juice to soft peaks, then SLOWLY drizzle in the sugar syrup. Keep whipping until quite stiff. Spoon this meringue on a lightly oiled sheet pan and bake in the oven until dry through, then break into chunks. I serve it with vanilla Häagen-Dazs when I want to feel like I’m twenty again.

Peach Pavlova

Preheat oven to 300. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and coat with cooking spray. For four servings, whip four egg whites until the peaks are soft, then gradually whip in a half cup of confectioner’s sugar mixed with a tablespoon of corn starch along with a teaspoon of lemon juice and a half teaspoon of vanilla. Continue beating until whites are stiff. Spoon meringue onto parchment paper; working from the center, spread mixture toward the outside edge, leaving a slight depression in the center. Bake until crusty, turn off heat, and keep in the oven. Slice, macerate, and refrigerate two large unpeeled peaches; the skin gives the syrup a strong color. Sweeten and whip a half cup of heavy cream. Remove and plate meringues; a small dollop of whipped cream on the plate will keep the meringue from sliding around. Top with whipped cream and fruit.