At the old Bean Blossom in Oxford, we worked with a limited inventory and a short menu, but this was no ball-and-chain for our spontaneity. One morning we decided on quiches for lunch, and with no time to make crusts, we made beautiful naked quiches. These are called frittatas. Most frittatas are just fried potatoes and eggs, the most basic dish imaginable. It’s also heavy; a little goes a long way. I always add a grated hard cheese. This recipe is best made in a 9-in. skillet.
Peel and dice two waxy potatoes; you want about two cups. Parboil, drain, and pan fry in oil with a little minced garlic; you want potato chunks that are cooked through and a bit crusty. Beat six eggs quite well, season with salt, pepper, and herbs if you like, and add half to hot, well-oiled skillet. When eggs begin to bubble, sprinkle in the potatoes and grated hard cheese. Add the rest of the eggs and pop in a hot oven until browned.

