Many people serve a baked ham for Easter and with it mustard in degrees of heat and sweet. These confections are made in advance, best at least the night before, though always good to have on hand. This recipe is also good with any smoked meat, particularly turkey. Beat well three whole eggs, combine with a cup of Coleman’s dry mustard, a cup of herb vinegar—balsamic or tarragon—and a half cup of light brown sugar. Cook over low heat until thickened, chill and store. This preparation keeps quite well in a tightly sealed container.
Egg salad and its culinary counterparts tuna and chicken simply reek of ladies’ luncheons and soda fountain sandwiches. Pimento and cheese once had similar associations, but now thanks to the same Southern machismo ethic that has established eating a Duke’s dripping white bread Vidalia onion sandwich over the kitchen sink virtually a rite of passage has now transcended such effete associations and often finds itself served in micro-breweries with an unassuming amber larger. Still and all, the South is nothing if not traditional, and egg salad perseveres as a staple at distaff functions and an essential at christenings, weddings and those inevitable funerals.
Egg salad in and of itself is a simple recipe, nothing more than chopped, cooked—usually boiled—eggs blended with a sauce or emulsion to make a spread, but as with most simple recipes, variations abound and additions are discussed, debated and occasionally disputed. For instance, olives seem to be a traditional addition throughout the nation, but most recipes from the South tend to include black olives whereas above the Mason-Dixon Line green olives with pim(i)ento stuffing is the general rule. Woody Allen trivialized egg salad in his 1966 feature film debut as the object of Phil Moskowitz’s search for the stolen recipe of the Grand Exalted High Majah of Raspur, giving heft to my argument that when it comes to egg salad people can work themselves into a froth over seemingly the most insignificant details, which puts food right up there with art and law.
Yes, use boiled eggs; though I’m certain some misguided if not to say unbalanced individuals actually do make egg salad with scrambled eggs, or horror of horrors compounded mangled omelets or even worse God help us please not quiche, boiled eggs are traditional for a good reason; don’t even think about it, just use boiled eggs and don’t over-cook them. I mash mine with a wide-tined fork and add good mayonnaise to texture. Adjust the amount to your own tastes; me, I like it a little on the dry/chunky side as opposed to the creamy/smooth. Of course I use black olives, usually canned pitted jumbo, but Kalamata give it a nice salty kick and the olive oil is a nice touch. Finely-chopped celery and green onion give egg salad a better texture, a dash of pepper vinegar or lemon juice gives it a little bite, and I like mine peppery, served on rye toast with a light Pilsner.
Very soon you’re bound to have a few boiled eggs left over, and here’s a great recipe for a light buffet any time of the day.
Brennan’s of New Orleans: Creamed Eggs Chartres
1 cup finely chopped/shredded white onions
1/3 cup butter
1/4 cup flour
2 cups of milk
1 egg yolk
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 hard boiled eggs, peeled and sliced (reserving 4 center slices for garnishment)
2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon of paprika
In a large skillet sauté onion in butter until clear/transparent; stir in flour and cook slowly 3-5 minutes more. Blend in milk and egg yolk until smooth. Add salt and pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, 8-10 minutes longer or until sauce thickens. Remove from heat, add sliced eggs and mix lightly. Spoon into 2 8-oz casseroles and sprinkle with paprika and Parmesan cheese mixed together. Bake at 350 degrees until thoroughly headed. Garnish with eggs slices; serves two. This is a wonderful breakfast or brunch recipe, and can be served in a casserole with toasted French bread slices.
You’ll find milled corn cooked all over the world now, in its simplest and still most popular—do any of you really like polenta? I mean, grits make sense, but come on—form as a bread among many of the hundreds that are a staple of several dozens of global cuisines, basic breads which aren’t anything but corn of some ilk, water and maybe grease, tricky recipes since they have to be handled properly, and there’s always a necessary procedure else you’re just making a mess. This recipe of Joe Ann’s is as they all are simple and time-consuming, but as Joe Ann says, “A labor of love, but worth it.”
Your oven should be hot, about 450, and the pan you bake these on should be oiled on the generous side and in the oven well beforehand. The batter should be thick, manageable with a spoon; think pancakes. Salt, a scant teaspoon to a cup of meal, two tablespoons oil; melted butter is best, but vegetable oil will do, mix cup for cup with hot water. There’s not a lot of batter involved, like a tablespoon for each 3 in. cake, but they take a while, so get on social media and vent for twenty minutes before taking a peek, and if the cakes are ever-so-lightly browned on the outsides—these are some of the prettiest little breads you’ll ever make—what I do is turn them over, return them to the oven and cut it off, then I can go back and rail at the world again. These should be served hot, directly from the oven, but reheat beautifully.
Pickled shrimp have long been a favorite dish for alfresco occasions and lend a little touch of refinement to even the most modest events. Strictly speaking, the shrimp aren’t pickled, they’re simply marinated in a tangy solution of vinegar with lemon juice, herbs and spices for such a time that they’re infused with a tart, pungent flavor that works very well on a warm afternoon or evening.
Use shrimp of almost any size for this dish, but I’d recommend a larger count, nothing smaller than a 26/30, though a 21/25 is ideal. Boil the shrimp in the usual manner, taking care not to overcook them, peel and for this recipe devein. Now, use socks of herbs and spices along with the pungent Cajun seasonings you might like, particularly garlic; there ain’t nothin’ sissy about my shrimp salad.
For each pound of cooked shrimp, add half a cup of diced white onion, ripe tomato and peeled cucumber along with a few (3) green onions cut on the bias. Toss this with a cup of white vinegar, the juice of half a lemon, and season with salt, black pepper and dill. Do NOT add oil to this; serve this with a good olive oil on the table. Add water to cover if needed, refrigerate the shrimp overnight and stir as often as you can remember. Serve with crusty bread.