A Remoulade Salad

Use your favorite recipe for the remoulade and at least four ounces per serving of shrimp or lump crabmeat. Toss meat in remoulade with finely-chopped celery. Dice very ripe tomatoes and marinate in a vinaigrette. For each place setting use half a small head of lettuce; remove stem and shred the heart. To assemble, place lettuce halves on plates, cutting a small slice from the bottom to stabilize. Fill the lettuce halves with shredded lettuce, spoon tomato vinaigrette around the rim and scoop the shrimp or crab remoulade into the center. Paprika provides a nice accent for flavor as well as color. This is a good way to serve a remoulade in a formal fresh air setting.


Roots Remoulade

Though the Larousse Gastronomique is considered by many the final court of authority on Gallic cuisine, the monumental work is not without an occasional chink in its venerable armor. One albeit small perforation involves its recipe for a remoulade, which calls for a cup of mayonnaise with two tablespoons mixed herbs (parsley, chives, chervil and tarragon), one tablespoon drained capers, two finely diced cornichons and a few drops of anchovy essence (optional). No doubt this mixture is savory, subtle and delicious, but let us note that the Librairie Larousse was a Parisian publishing house specializing in encyclopedias and dictionaries, and as such I find it odd (I can’t quite call it inaccurate) that this recipe ignores the origins of the word “rémoulade” itself, which is derived from a dialectal French term, rémola, with origins in the Latin word for horseradish, armoracea. Given this classical precedent, I find it altogether appropriate that any recipe for a remoulade, be it white, red or green (yes, children, there is a green remoulade, made by adding spinach) should include horseradish, and anchovy oil is a necessary accent as well.