Hoover Lee is a grocer in the tiny hamlet of Louise, Mississippi, on the southeastern edge of the Mississippi Delta. Mr. Lee makes a sauce for marinades and barbecue that he describes as one formulated to replicate roasted Cantonese duck. The sauce has a heavy soy background accented by ingredients known to him alone. These chicken leg quarters were marinated overnight and roasted in a slow oven for two hours. The skin is crisp and the flesh is succulent, proof that his sauce is a success in recreating the character if not quite the flavor of roast duck. A recommended marinade for any fowl.